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Derby Pie recipe remains
a secret
By SUSAN EUBANK
Oldham Era, 1978
My mother was wrong. She always told me that I
would never reap any benefits from a wrongdoing. But in this case,
she was wrong.
You see, back in May, my Kitchen Korner recipe
column concerning itself with Derby recipes, such as Burgoo, mint
juleps, etc., daringly ran a recipe for Derby Pie.
That was the mistake. Until contacted I had no
way of knowing that Derby Pie was a very secretly guarded recipe
of a former Prospect family, but indeed, the name "Derby Pie,"
itself, was a registered trademark of the estate of the late Walter
Kern.
Well, to make a long story, somewhat shorter.
I figured to look into the mysterious Kern family and their treasured
trademarked dessert delight. (And this is the benefits come in)
I not only got the entire interesting story, I enjoyed meeting the
present baker of the pies and also enjoyed a free sampling of the
luscious sweet in the very kitchens in which it is prepared.
Alan Rupp (pronounced with a "u" as
in 'soup') is the current pie-baker-extrodinaire of the Kern Family
Kitchens. He has been in the dough for the last five years, literally
speaking. And at age 24, he is intent on carrying on the tradition
of Derby Pie excellence and the secret recipe.
Rupp didn't concoct the recipe. Oh my no, it was
formulated back in the fifties by his grandfather, the late Walter
Kern and his uncle, George Kern.
At the time, the Kerns along with Rupp's grandmother,
Leaudra Kern, were managing the Melrose Inn in Prospect. The pie
was the specialty of the house; so popular was it that Kern decided
to register the name in both the Kentucky capitol and the nation's
capitol as well.
When the Kern's attorney contacted me concerning
my use of the name "Derby Pie" in the paper, I can truthfully
say that I thought they were being a little picky.
But I take that all back. Alan Rupp is a delightful
man and he was extremely kind to me when I visited him in Lyndon.
Now I say, after all is known, that the Kern family has a right
to protect the recipe and name, after all, it is rightfully theirs.
Presently, there is a lawsuit pending against
two major Louisville distillers and a Louisville advertising agency
over the publication of a book of recipes in which "Derby Pie"
was featured. It has been said that the trademarked name in this
suit could be worth $25,000; Alan Rupp isn't saying.
Rupp showed me the brochure that was published
by the distilleries. I asked him about the ingredients listed in
the small recipe. "Are these the exact ingredients," I
said in my best reporter's voice.
But Rupp was not to be tricked. With a twinkle
in his eye, he answered that none of the recipes he has seen (including
the one I put in the Era) come anywhere close to the recipe ingredients
that go together to make the famous pie. I guessed chocolate chips,
that was right. I guessed walnuts and that was right, too. But that's
as far as I got and apparently as far as anyone has concerning the
secret.
Rupp does mention that he uses all quality ingredients
and I can certainly attest to that fact. In the kitchen at Mrs.
Leaudra Kern's house I first tasted Derby Pie. It is rich, gooey
and utterly delicious.
The La Grange Key Market carries the pies as does
several restaurants and establishments in the Oldham area. The Prospector,
The Melrose Inn, Hunting Creek Country Club, the Mousetrap, all
these places can provide you with an original Kern's Derby Pie as
can many places in Louisville.
Rupp apologized as he served me the steaming hot
Derby Pie treat. He said that if his grandmother, Leaudra, had been
there she would have made some homemade whipped cream to stack on
top of it.
Isn't that something. Here I used a family registered
trademark without permission and he's apologizing for not having
whipped up some topping for my free piece of pie. But that's the
kind of family he comes from, and the kind of man he is.
He even gave me a tart-sized pie to take home
to my husband. Sorry, dear, I did mean to save it for you, really
I did.
I apologize to the Kern family and the Rupps for
using their trademark. I also thank them for their hospitality and
kindness.
If you're ever in the mood for a little slice
of heaven, get yourself a slice of Derby Pie and enjoy, enjoy.
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